There are many famous quotes about Champagne and frankly you can replace the word with Sparkling wine and end up with a similar meaning. However perhaps the Oscar Wilde quote applies the ‘World’s First Global Sparkling Wine Bar’ Grays and Feather soon to be open in Covent Garden.
“Pleasure without Sparkling Wine is purely artificial” Oscar Wilde
Of course it says the Ch….word in the original quote but it seems appropriate for a ‘World First’ and one inspired by ‘exploration, education and most importantly enjoyment’ that it represents much more than just a drink.
For creator and owner Andrew Gray, Sparkling wine is more than just a passion, but almost a way of life. Andrew has been selling sparkling wine for 7 years in the street markets of London through all manner of challenges.
The traditionalists may be shocked when they realise that Sparkling wine for Grays and Feather means no Champagne and in Covent Garden and all. But for good reason, which chimes with the times of value for money; an experiential view of the wider world, stories to tell and focussing on the different or unusual without being outrageous for the sake of it.
Andrew GrayGrays and Feather opens at 26 Wellington Street, WC2 towards the end of June (date TBC), and will be dedicated to the world’s sparkling wines. There will be 50 sparkling wines from around the world will dominate the list, with 10 roses and 10 sparkling reds. The selection process for the sparkling wines is rigorous, and with so much choice in the market then it has to be. It takes Andrew’s pragmatic approach and moulds it into something unique. Whilst yet to be fully settled the shape is beginning to emerge. The supplier base will be about 10 wine importers, as well as importing some things on their own account.
Some may say that Andrew is a little bit crazy, but the background market dynamics, hard fought experience of adapting the circumstances and his instinctive gut feeling say otherwise. He and Grays and Feather are survivors, going through the economic recession, knowing what they want in real tangible ways.
A quick look at the numbers further proves Andrew’s handle on sanity. The Organisation des Inernationale de la Vigne et Vin (OIV) has just reported that sparkling wine globally has grown by 8% in volume and 19% in value. Specifically the UK’s growth reported by the IWSR (International Wine and Spirit Research) and Vinexpo showed that the category will have grown by 84.4% in 10 years if the growth pattern continues on its current trend by 2021.
The list will not be completely one-eyed, as it will include 7 of each red and white still wines with a couple of roses also. A nod to the diminishing appetite for still wine.
Andrew’s journey started with a degree in Sociology, he asked himself what he would like to be talking about in 10 years time? Sparkling wine was the answer, which has led him on a some-time rocky, but fascinating road, rich in texture and experience.
A period at Vinopolis, doing private masterclasses, PR and marketing, a brief sojourn into rum but always in touch with Sparkling wine. He even started a website which was not the success hoped, but led him to set up a street market stall selling sparkling wines. Seven years later, he can still be found at Southbank Food Market, come rain, snow or shine enticing people with great unique sparkling wines from around the world.
Now Andrew is not just a Sparkling wine business man and aficianado but also an Ambassador for Cremant – the French sparkling wine classification for AOC outside of Champagne.
Its an incredible journey when you consider the highs and lows of running a stall in a food market are extreme by most of our standards. The lows are the weather, pumping out cold Sparkling wine in the bitter beast from the east wind with snow whipping across the stall is no fun. However creative and determined as ever Andrew learns to adapt to the conditions, and has been known to serve mulled wine to warm the cockles of the heart. Yet punters still come for sparkling wine – it is almost a reverse occasion to celebrate. Defiant, British spirit maybe!
The highs are the celebrant atmosphere as the cork pops and feeling the cheer that it brings to stall visitors. There are many different types of visitors that come and go. If there is an influx of Spanish tourists then they demand Cava, if Italian, well naturally, Prosecco and so on. Sparkling wine selection it seems is a point of national pride and becoming so in England too. It is only in the last four years that English sparkling wine has come to the fore.
The food served in the forthcoming Grays and Feather will be all fresh and uncooked, which presents some challenges in recruiting chefs, that see fire as their tool. So the menu will be Ceviche, which is a fantastic partner with sparkling wine, scallops, cheeses, meats and unusual flavours. To surprise, not shock the consumer with delight is a clear aspiration.
But at its centre is a theatre, personality and fun. A trial oyster eating competition was done as a bit of fun on the market stall, a little messy perhaps but fun. Maybe alongside the street entertainers, we will see crowds gathering for the famous Grays and Feather wine bar competitions?
London has often been referred to as the centre of wine trading, but this is a genuine first and may lead to other cities and international development. Remember you heard it hear first!
Alistair Morrell, Hospitality & Catering News, Wine & Drinks Editor