Following a conversation on Twitter the other week H&C News were invited to visit Llangoed Hall situated in the heart of the Welsh countryside in the Wye Valley close by to the Brecon Beacons.
We set out from Ascot onto the M4 and two and a half hours later turned into Llangoed Hall. On arrival the country house presents itself and has presence. Confident and self-assured gained from enjoying many landmark moments in its long history dating back to 560AD.
Llangoed Hall is believed to be on the site of the legendary White Palace, home of the first Welsh parliament. A mansion has existed from 1632. It was first in the possession of the MacNamara family having been won in a card game and it stayed with them for two generations until 1847. In 1912 Clough Williams Ellis re-designed the mansion as a country house. Sir Bernard Ashley bought Llangoed Hall in 1987 and opened it as a hotel in 1990.
As you walk in you feel immediately that you have arrived somewhere special and are warmly greeted by the very friendly team looking after the house. You also feel at home, not that we reside in a country home just a lovely homely feel to the place.
As we walked through the hall and up the stairs to our room the paintings and objets d’art on display are difficult to walk past but we have 24 hours to investigate fully.
Then the room, oh the room with its exquisite niche bay window framed with stone transoms and mullions, we will let the images below do the rest of the talking.
The original Twitter conversation that had led us to Llangoed Hall centred on bees, so we set off to start exploring the gardens and the find out more about the bees. Bees are the environment’s sentries, but they are now at risk of extinction mainly due to the widespread use of neonicotinoid-based pesticides and insecticides in large agricultural areas. It is critical that the habitats bees thrive in are restored. Bees are indicators of the health of our ecosystems and the only pollinators for a large number of plants. Relais & Châteaux properties all over the world are leading efforts to help this and we were at Llangoed Hall to learn more.
Walking through the grounds with their magnificent views of the Wye Valley and far beyond it’s the first day of spring so the wide variety of trees, shrubs and plants are showing signs of coming back to life.
At the back of the house the crocket lawn is immediately central and then the livestock appear. Hens, chickens, bantams and ducks lots and lots of them, the variety of the plumage on display in one spacious pen is remarkable. In another it is very much less so but we learn that the birds are rescued from a battery farm and only a few days into their new found freedom. The plumage recovery is already underway but quite some way to go before they can match their neighbours.
The bees are located by the duck pond and Pete Knowles who is the vegetable gardener, poultry man and bee keeper at Llangoed Hall is keen to show us what is being done bee wise. Pete’s passion for the bees is contagious and he happily educates us about everything bee, which is fascinating. His confidence around thousands of bees somehow transfers to us too, so as he lifts the hive lid to show us the inner workings of the hive we happily snap away. The bees are workers and produce honey that is sold to guests, we did purchase a jar but as yet have not tested.
We are then joined by Calum and his beagle cross whippet, Elan. Calum is the Managing Director of Llangoed Hall or as he puts it the ‘current custodian’. Calum begins to show us the many ways that Llangoed Hall applies sustainability to its day to day life and is clearly very passionate about this. Everything is re used, re cycled and made to work, sustainability at Llangoed Hall is lived and breathed.
The gardens grow vegetables, the greenhouse grows herbs, the hens, chickens, bantams and ducks produce an amazing array of eggs in many sizes and colours and all are used to great effect in the kitchens as we find out later that evening.
Later in the afternoon we peruse the many rooms and halls of the grand house. Llangoed Hall has an outstanding collection of paintings, drawings and works of fine art by artists including James McNeil Whistler, Herman Dudley Murphy and Augustus John. Many of the works of art are in demand from museum curators and loaned out to galleries for viewings, as a guest you can enjoy a one to one all of your own with these treasures. Our favorites were two small paintings, ‘Venetian Views’ by Louis Ginnett and stopped to admire both on numerous occasions throughout our stay.
Venetian Views by Louis GinnettBack to the rooms and time to get dressed for dinner, before we go down to the dining room we enjoyed a small sherry, the perfect pre-dinner aperitif. A decanter of sherry is left in the room for guests, a very nice touch and like all other aspects of life while staying at Llangoed Hall their attention to detail is almost flawless.
The dining room is spacious and tables are set out allowing diners a comfortable privacy, the tables are set and dressed beautifully.
For starters we chose Pheasant Egg, Mushroom, Leek and Portland Cock Crab, Buttermilk, Rhubarb, Crème Fraiche. The presentation of both dishes was almost as good as the taste, they looked beautiful and tasted even better. The taste combinations and textures worked well together and sharing plates was a must, there was a lot of sharing going on at tables nearby.
Portland Cock Crab, Buttermilk, Rhubarb, Crème Fraiche
Not everyone however was busy like us with a 35mm camera trying to capture all the culinary moments, nobody seemed to care however as they just stared at, discussed and eat their food. The couple nearest to us did seem mildly amused with our photographic endeavours. When we tried using the excuse ‘we are working’ their reply was we are too. Our table neighbours were the owners of a spa lodge and were at Llangoed Hall looking for ideas to take back. We met them both again the next morning walking the grounds and learnt that they had been inspired by much of what they had experienced and were taking ideas back to implement. Many hoteliers and restauranteurs would serve themselves well doing the same.
For the second course we both decided on the Welsh Beef Tartare, Native Oyster, Cauliflower, Smoke and it did not disappoint. Delivered with theatre, a glass bowl covered the dish that was filled with smoke. The beef was seasoned well and the texture was complimented well by the cauliflower and oyster.
Welsh Beef Tartare, Native Oyster, Cauliflower, Smoke
The third course was a difficult choice as we were both torn between the three choices but settled on Lemon Sole, Sea Vegetables, Wakame, Miso, Parsnip and the Welsh Lamb, Anchovy, Pine nut, Cos, Quinoa. On an evening where presentation was nearing a perfect ten the Lemon Sole was the star of the show, a work of art. The Welsh lamb was served two ways tender pink fillets and a well done rib. Both dishes were delicious.
Lemon Sole, Sea Vegetables, Wakame, Miso, Parsnip
We agreed once again on our fourth course Valrhona Chocolate Laminate, Raspberry, Cocoa Nib the presentation was dramatic and the various tastes combined well.
The meal was a fabulous experience, the service was attentive but not fussy overseen by Brian Irving, Operations Manager at Llangoed Hall. All that was left to do now was meet Head Chef Nick Brodie and his brigade in the kitchens to say thank you. Nick and his kitchen team were a happy bunch after a long service and delight in their work, which was reflected to the plates they serve. So once again, Thank You Chef!
After a very comfortable night’s sleep aided somewhat by the wonderful meal and wines that accompanied each course it was soon time to get up and have a walk before breakfast. The breakfast menu is almost as impressive as dinner, we chose a hearty porridge with brown sugar to start followed by a full Welsh and all washed down with plenty of coffee.
All too soon it was time to leave and take the M4 back to Ascot, so out overall verdict…
The hotel is difficult to summarise, so here’s our best effort. Llangoed Hall welcomes you warmly, feels like home temporarily and manages everything without trying. For a short break away from it all we can only award Calum and the team 10/10.
Thank you
Denis
Denis Sheehan, Publisher, Hospitality & Catering News
We took many photographs and a selection of our favorites are below.