Matt Gillan’s recent ‘starring’ role in the Great British Menu has received great publicity and plaudits, but has perhaps resulted in his very real achievements at The Pass at South Lodge being temporarily overshadowed. A recent invitation from Exclusive Hotels, therefore, to visit and experience the Chef’s Table was a very welcome opportunity to sample Matt’s high end cuisine – as well as to try the winning Teaching and Preaching main course dish.
South Lodge (pictured below) is an Exclusive Hotel near Horsham, West Sussex – itself a five star country house hotel. Matt joined their 2AA Rosette Camellia restaurant in 2006, and became Head Chef with the launch of The Pass in 2008. A Michelin star, Good Food Guide listing, and 4AA Rosettes have followed – along with widespread critical attention and praise.
The Great British Menu
After receiving straight 10 scores from both the chefs and judges Matthew Fort, Prue Leith, Oliver Peyton and guest judge Felicity Cloake – an achievement never seen before in the history of The Great British Menu – Matt’s faultless main course dish, Teaching and Preaching, was put straight through to the banquet without a shortlist.
Matt had fought off stiff competition to secure his place cooking the main course, Teaching and Preaching – goat, dumpling, pineapple, cheese – at the special banquet celebrating 100 years of the Women’s Institute held at Drapers Hall in London.
The Pass
Chef’s Tables have become familiar in recent years, but The Pass remains at the forefront: described as a ‘conceptual dining experience’ and, as can be seen above, the open plan layout provides guests full sight of the workings – even drama – of an award-winning kitchen and its team.
Limited by space to 11 chef’s tables and 22 covers, guests experience the sounds, aromas and tastes of the ‘progressive British’ food offered by The Pass.
The tasting menus are accompanied by a tailored wine flight, expertly presented and explained by the sommelier.
Alternatively, you can opt for a juice flight which is equally expertly explained, with the tastes succeeding in complementing each course to sometimes surprising but always delicious effect. Obliged by work commitments to drive back to London after the meal, and listening to the sounds of appreciation of the wine drinkers around me, I quickly found my misgivings misplaced: the juice flight is well worth experiencing in its own right.
The menu
Matt Gillan is known for the originality, even playfulness, of his food: flavour and texture combinations will surprise, the emphasis on seasonality can also introduce unfamiliar elements, and the originality often emerges – witness the winning Great British menu main course.
As you would expect, the food at The Pass lives up to the quality of the surroundings and environment: the ‘theatre’ of the kitchen raises expectations that were in no way disappointed on the night. Tastes and textures certainly surprise, even challenge, at times – as you should expect. And a glance at the menu below demonstrates all of these elements, which resulted in dishes that were both enjoyable and stimulating.
Sowing and Growing
Onion, malt, cocoa nib
Jamming and Canning
Sardine, rhubarb, baby gem, langoustine, chicken wing
Teaching and Preaching
Goat, dumpling, pineapple, cheese
Back to Black (and yellow)
Honey, fennel, yogurt (pictured below)
In particular, and once tasted, it’s no surprise that Teaching and Preaching literally ‘wowed’ the judges: goat is not often seen on British menus, so guests are not sure what to expect. In this case, and without an exception that I could observe, slight apprehension rapidly changed to enjoyment. It’s truly a dish to relish.
Dining with stars
The Pass delivers a thoroughly enjoyable environment for guests: from immaculate service to the theatre of the kitchen, from the complementary excellence of the wines to the sophistication, textures, tastes and even ‘challenges’ of the dishes.
The proof: the restaurant was full of guests – not just our party – visibly but seriously enjoying their food: yes, serious attention was being paid to what was presented on the plate and each wine in the flight, but there was also clear appreciation and enjoyment of what they were tasting and the environment around them.
There’s no doubt that Matt Gillan has become a ‘star’, but so has the food produced by his talented team: you can expect to be surprised, you can expect to enjoy – and you can expect to (want to) return!
Matt Gillan at The Pass, South Lodge, Brighton Road, Lower Beeding, near Horsham, RH13 6PS
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