The Old Crown Coaching Inn located within the historic market town of Faringdon lies at the edge of the Cotswolds midway between Oxford and Swindon. Steeped in history, Faringdon was the first capital of Wessex, from where Alfred the Great ruled his kingdom in the latter stages of the 9th century.
Driving west on the M4 from London and exiting at junction 15, a delightful 25 minute drive through the Wiltshire and Oxfordshire countryside takes you to your destination, Faringdon in the Vale of the White Horse. As you arrive in the town centre The Old Crown Coaching Inn, a Grade II listed, 16th century building presents itself invitingly.
We checked in and were taken to our room, The Court Room, wow. The room, or suite to be more accurate features a four poster bed, a lounge area, a fireplace, a two-person jet bath, separate shower, and all the amenities you would expect of such luxurious accommodation, including Nespresso coffee making facilities, and a rather large 72 inch smart TV.
Before dinner we took a walk around the town, a rummage through some charity shops was fun and the walk helped work up an appetite.
As you enter the restaurant it’s not quite what you expect, the 16th century has been introduced to contemporary minimalist design, and they sit well together. The centrepiece to the restaurant is an almost imposing cherry blossom, and the walls are adorned with modern art celebrating vegetables.
We did not require a menu as the tasting menu had been recommended and we took the nod.
Seven courses from chef Samuel Squires and brigade presented themselves in the most delightful sequence, each exquisite in their own right and collectively exceptional.
We enjoyed…
- Chef’s Bread, Butter, and Snacks
- British Tomatoes, Olive Oil Ice Cream, Black Olives and Basil
- Cocoa Cured Duck, Rhubarb, Beetroot, and Chive
- Tuna, Daikon, Avocado, Seaweed, Soy
- Lamb Loin, Carrot, Sheep’s Curd, Almond
- Poached Rhubarb, Vanilla and Rhubarb Panna Cotta, Milk Foam Crisp, Puffed Rice
- Orange and Chilli, Chocolate and Ginger Mousse, Dark Chocolate, Orange, Red Chilli
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There was a wine flight option, but we decided to try the house red and white options by the glass, as I always think they are the best pointer towards any cellar’s depth of quality. Both passed that test, especially the white.
Anyone who reads my restaurant reviews knows I love my bread and butter, I had to temper my enthusiasm here as there were six courses to follow, it was hard. We caught up with chef Samuel Squires the next morning, more of that later, his focus on local provenance paid a dividend with the bread and butter, as it would continue to do throughout each step of the menu.
Each course was a delight, highlights for me included the already mentioned bread and butter, the Olive Oil Ice Cream, the Cocoa Cured Duck, the Poached Rhubarb, Vanilla and Rhubarb Panna Cotta, Milk Foam Crisp, Puffed Rice, and most of all the Tuna, Daikon, Avocado, Seaweed, Soy.
Part of the challenge I think with every tasting menu is the taste path that steps from each course to the next. Squires’ focus on provenance allows strong flavours to present themselves accompanied by textures and tastes that flow cohesively.
After dinner we ventured for another walk, it was a lovely evening for a stroll and we animatedly chatted about dinner, concluding we would be back again soon.
After a wonderful nights’ sleep, we came down for breakfast latish on Saturday morning, to enjoy a full English. Breakfast rivalled dinner, one course Vs six is a very different experience of course so some might not see comparison, on the basis of simply enjoying a meal it was hard to award a winner. Yet again provenance was rewarded.
Before we left, we sat down with GM Seb Evans, and Head Chef Samuel Squires to try and learn how their formula for hospitality at The Old Crown Coaching Inn had emerged and developed. Evans’ focus was on people, recruitment and training a priority as well as culture, guest experience is paramount.
Squires whose culinary journey includes as a young chef experiencing tutelage from John Williams MBE and the brigade at The Ritz London is as equally passionate about people as he is about food. Like Evans the ultimate test of what they are doing is measured in guest experience and satisfaction. The frequency with which many regulars return is perhaps the most accurate gauge of delivery.
If you are planning a trip somewhere via the M4, consider exiting at junction 15 and gauging guest experience at The Old Crown Coaching Inn, I think you will be pleased with your decision.