The scale and scope of the Covid-19 crisis in hospitality has created an almost surreal, pessimistic tone to news broadcasting in 2020.
The numbers being reported don’t help in most instances either, as they are too big to paint a picture with depth beyond variances in forecasting the potential demise of our great industry, hospitality.
Yet, while talking with people through the process of collecting news, and/or insights beyond the headlines, conversations with individuals reflecting on their personal experiences paint with more exposure, shedding light and tone.
I recently sounded out with numerous people in hospitality, the idea of starting a new series of articles that reflected ‘candid’ personal experiences and views of the Covid-19 crisis. Interviews, allowing people to speak freely and unfiltered, sharing their thoughts and views. Reactions were encouraging.
I then asked for ideas to nominate people in the industry that they would in an ideal world like to hear from. I won’t list all mentioned, but the person who not only was most often mentioned, was also who enjoyed most time devoted to backing up his multiple nominations, was Michel Roux Jr.
So, earlier this week we spoke: ‘Covid-19 with Michel Roux Jr’
H&C News: “What are your early recollections of the emergence of Covid-19?”
Michel Roux Jr: “I first started filtering the news from China in late December, early January and I guess like many others it seemed far away. In February, the problem was developing and spreading but it was still being widely reported as not on our doorstep and as such not our problem. Those that were saying at the time it was coming our way were being ‘poo poohed’ and Boris Johnson seemed unconcerned at that point too.
“It was in March that warnings it was coming our way began to sink in. I remember visiting a trade show at the NEC Birmingham and seeing people wearing masks. It was about two weeks before the lockdown and it was a real eye opener. There were also numerous sanitiser stations dotted around the walkways and people seemed unusually cautious.
“During Jan, Feb and March I had been speaking with fellow chefs and restauranteurs in China, France and Italy. They were all in various levels of shock, as lockdowns that had been implemented by their governments were already in place. They were all asking, ‘who’s going to pay for all this?’ I must say that I thought the early action from the French Government was excellent, they supported and helped their hospitality industry. The tone of President Macron said, ‘I care’.
“Boris in March however seemed as alarmed and shocked as the rest of us, even before lockdown he was panicking warning people to avoid restaurants and pubs.
“The impact was immediate for Le Gavroche, normally fully booked for all services, we lost one hundred thousand pounds in the week leading up to lockdown. We stayed open the week I refer to, confident in the belief that our business interruption insurance would take care of the interruption to business that was no fault of ours, it didn’t.”
H&C News: “How was lockdown approached?”
Michel Roux Jr: “Our first action was to go into ‘survival mode’. We had a taste of what was coming the week before, so we knew we had to act, and act fast. We needed to do everything possible to save money.
“The fridges were full, so we emptied them of thousands of pounds worth of food, and sent every member of staff home with bags full of good food, and a few nice bottles of wine selected by the sommeliers.
“I gave my word before anyone left that day that they would all be taken care of, with full pay for as long as possible, trying my best to allay worries, including my own.
“There was a lot of emotion in the air and lots of hugs, the human side of what our industry has gone through so far is often overlooked. As hospitality busines owners we have paid a high price financially from the impact of Covid-19, the emotional cost is also very high.
“We adopted an approach to save every penny we could, we switched everything off and applied ourselves to the small details as diligently as the big ones.
“It was difficult to then phone all of our supplier businesses, but I had to let them know that we had closed, and all existing orders needed to be rearranged. Our suppliers are part of our business and we needed to look after them just like they look after us. Again emotional as I knew they were suffering the same as we were.
“I also needed help, so I called our accountants and asked them how long we could last. Talking helps, so I also called close friends in the industry here and in France and we spoke, at length.
H&C News: “What were your reopening plans and how did you execute them?”
Michel Roux Jr: “I have always thought that to be in hospitality you must relish a challenge, this one was looking more than daunting, but it had to be met with resilience.
“In the interim prior to any reopening plans we looked at takeaway but decided against it. For two reasons, Mayfair is a comparatively sparsely populated part of London, and Michelin star food doesn’t travel in my opinion.
“We approached reopening as we did closing, with meticulous detail leaving no stone unturned. Safe hospitality was the priority and team play and team decision making was implemented.
“Acting quickly saved us money on some costs, perspex dividing screens being one example. Buying a week later they would have more than doubled in price.
“We wanted to be seen to be operating safe hospitality, so face masks were ordered on day one, with the Le Gavroche logo of course.
“We would be operating with less covers by ensuring adequate space was provided enabling social distancing, and we reduced the complexity of the menu. That mitigated any ongoing risk of holding too much stock if a local lockdown was implemented.
“It is often in times of difficulty that people show initiative, and one example has proven to be both truly inspiring to me, and of significant benefit. I unfortunately had to explain to one young man who works with us in an admin role, that after the furlough scheme ended I would have to look at his position, and then reassess when we reopened.
“He came back to me and suggested that we could sell Le Gavroche books, souvenirs, wines and more online if he set up a website for the job. He, ‘not me’, and his idea not only saved his job, but it has also now become a profitable part of the business. Stock that was sitting around doing nothing and collecting dust is now being sold every day through our new Le Gavroche E-Shop. He met his challenge with resilience and ingenuity.”
H&C News: “How have things been since reopening?”
Michel Roux Jr: “I have learned more than ever how important it is to listen to guests. We are fortunate to have a great many regular diners that I know and can speak with. They want comfort, they want to feel good, and they want to feel special. All the things we enjoy providing.
“Every day at the moment is a challenge from both a business and emotional perspective, but we relish the challenge, and we do our best in the face of adversity. I look and watch what other chefs and restaurateurs are doing and learn from them.
H&C News: “The interview was first and foremost was an enjoyable one, despite everything Michel Roux Jr is a positive person and a happy chappy that transfers positivity with a feeling of reassurance.
“The interview was also enlightening, Michel Roux Jr is not only one of the most respected chefs in the world, he seems to me also a ‘canny’ businessman.
“The last question was, who would you like to read being interviewed and asked similar questions to learn from? Michel Roux Jr’s reply was that he would pass the baton on via twitter after we publish his interview. We look forward to seeing who picks it up.”
I would like to say thank you to Michel Roux Jr for his time and conversation, it was a pleasure Chef!
News from the hospitality and catering industry is also being featured extensively in our Facebook and twitter social media accounts with the opportunity to engage with others in hospitality and share your views.
Hospitality & Catering News: Covid-19 Michel Roux Jr – 7 October 2020 – Covid-19 Michel Roux Jr
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Hospitality & Catering News: Covid-19 Michel Roux Jr – 7 October 2020 – Covid-19 Michel Roux Jr
