By Denis Sheehan FIH, Publisher H&C News: If you love the art of lunch, don’t stroll past Bruton Place.
You could quite easily stroll past Mayfair’s Bruton Place, a mews side street set across the road from the illustrious Grosvenor Square. If you love your food to do so would be a mistake, recently I didn’t and visited 26-28, SILVA with a friend.
As you enter SILVA it feels immediately comfortable, elegant, balanced, and inviting. The front of house team welcome you warmly and escort you to your table.
Once sat and settled, menus were delivered to the table. I always like menus like these, ones that make me deliberate, demanding time to narrow down in order to identify my final choices. I ordered Steak tartare, potato waffle, cured egg yolk to start followed by Seabass all’acqua pazza, courgette & green olives.
The steak tartare was punchy, earthy and hearty, the potato waffle gave it great base, I could easily have ordered a second but resisted.
The seabass then arrived sat in the most beautiful terracotta toned sauce set amongst thinly cut courgette and plump firm green olives, it looked divine and tasted such.
My dining partner ordered Cornish crab raviolo, langoustine sauce followed by Spatchcock poussin, fennel, mint & chilli. I was told they were both every bit as tasty as my choices, and I must admit that when the Cornish crab arrived I was suffering pangs of dish envy, I was assured they were justified, thanks Stephen.
We compared notes for a while and much of our discussion was to identify a style to attribute to the cooking, Provencal probably, possibly, but unmistakably Mediterranean.
We then ordered dessert, I chose SILVA Fruit tart, yuzu gel, diplomat cream and Stephen ordered Strawberry, vanilla fontainebleau, meringue. To my great satisfaction dish envy now reversed. As you will see below the dish was a true work of art visually, almost too perfect to disturb, but I did, it was just oh so good.
I washed the dessert down with an espresso, which was a great way to complete an extremely enjoyable lunch experience at SILVA. We both agreed we would revisit soon as the menu options definitely deserve further scrutiny.
So, if you find yourself in Mayfair, and love the art of lunch, don’t stroll past Bruton Place, and do pop into SILVA.
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