By Christopher Moore, President, PathNorth and Denis Sheehan FIH, Publisher, H&C News: The Cocochine, an experience so very deserving of a star.
Tucked away in a charming mews on Bruton Place, just off Berkeley Square, The Cocochine is more than a restaurant, it’s an experience. Set within a beautifully restored four-story townhouse, every corner of this exquisite space whispers intention, creativity, and elegance.
The design details are nothing short of extraordinary, mosaic snakes twist across the floors, their elegant forms echoed subtly in the furniture. Even the staircase is elevated, literally, with heated handrails, a detail as unexpected as it is appreciated. Each floor offers a distinct experience: the intimate ground-floor dining room with only eight tables; the first floor, where guests sit at a chef’s counter in the open kitchen; a private dining room for 16 and a cozy lounge on the top floor and on the lower ground level, a lavishly stocked wine cellar boasting treasures like a double magnum of 2015 Petrus and a snug that is just perfect for pre or post-dinner drinks.
We chose to dine at the chef’s counter, a front-row seat to the theatre of the kitchen, where seven chefs worked in perfect harmony. Watching them cook with intense focus, using tweezers to apply delicate final touches, was as impressive as the food itself.
We now split the review, Chris first
My meal began with a banana leaf BBQ native lobster, cooked before my eyes over a charcoal grill and finished with a vibrant tomato and tamarind dressing. The smoky sweetness of the lobster paired beautifully with the tangy sauce, creating a dish that was bold yet refined.
For the main course, I chose a 40-day dry-aged Rowler Farm sirloin of beef, served with a coconut and green peppercorn jus, a clever, aromatic twist that added depth without overpowering the beef’s natural flavour. This was followed by a palate cleansing sorbet topped with salt, chili, and angelica pods. The sweet heat combination was amazing.
To finish, a refreshing raspberry, yuzu, and Java pepper sorbet, followed by an espresso and perfectly executed petit fours. Every course was thoughtfully paired with exceptional wines from Austria, which elevated the dining experience even further.
Followed by Denis
I selected Dry Aged Rowler Farm Beef Tartare, Mushroom Parfait, Confit Egg Yolk to start.
Rich, savoury, and seriously satisfying. The beef is bold and full of flavour, thanks to the dry ageing, with a tender bite that melts just enough. The mushroom parfait adds a deep, earthy note, creamy and indulgent without stealing the spotlight. Then there’s the confit egg yolk, silky, golden, and just the right touch of richness to bring it all together. A proper treat for anyone who loves umami done right.
For main course I chose Dry Aged Fillet of Wild Scottish Turbot, Courgette, Cloudberries, Australian Black Truffle. Delicate but full of character. The dry aged turbot is firm yet buttery, with a gentle sweetness and depth you only get from wild fish handled with care. Courgette adds a fresh, clean contrast, light and slightly grassy. Finished with more than a whisper of Australian black truffle, earthy and luxurious, the whole plate is balanced and quietly indulgent.
Dessert was Poached Yorkshire Rhubarb, Blood Orange, Yoghurt Sorbet. The dish arrives presented within a tiara of white chocolate, bright, fresh, and beautifully balanced. The rhubarb is tender and tangy, just sweet enough to let its sharpness shine. Blood orange brings a juicy hit of citrus that lifts everything, while the yoghurt sorbet cools it all down with a creamy, refreshing tang. Light but packed with flavour, a sensational way to finish.
At the helm of The Cocochine is Chef Larry Jayasekara, whose modest demeanour belies an inspiring depth of culinary talent. With a résumé that includes time at Petrus and Le Manoir, he now brings his vision to life at The Cocochine, sourcing most ingredients from the restaurant’s own farm in Brackley, Northamptonshire.
The Cocochine is not just a meal, it’s a journey through craftsmanship, flavour, and quiet luxury. A true hidden gem in Mayfair, it deserves to be celebrated with a Michelin star.
