By Denis Sheehan FIH: The impeccable Art of Lunch at Woven.
Just where do you go when you want to treat a friend to lunch who coined the phrase, The Art of Lunch, and indulges in such frequently and selectively?
The friend in question is Maureen Mills, who set up PR firm Network London in 1996. Her client list tells you more about her standing in our industry that anything else. Mills knows about food, you only have to spend a few moments in her company to understand that. So, where to go was proving a dilemma, of my own making admittedly, but a quandary nonetheless.
Lady Luck stuck, a friend of my wife had taken some friends to Woven by Adam Smith and was more than impressed. Said friend being informed on all things social, I took the deflected nod and booked.
As you enter the estate that Coworth Park sits within a sense of tranquillity is bestowed, as you drive along the road that guides you to the hotel, everyday life is left somewhere back on the A30.
Coworth Park is a Georgian manor house built in 1776 for a merchant of the East India Company. It has changed ownership on numerous occasions, most recently being acquired by Dorchester Collection in 2001. After several years of refurbishment Coworth Park reopened in 2008, restored to reflect its Georgian heritage. The property spans circa 240 acres and includes facilities such as a spa, polo fields and equestrian grounds, stables, a heated pool, and a helicopter pad.
It also features Michelin starred restaurant, Woven by Adam Smith.
From the moment you step in it’s clear that every detail has been meticulously and thoughtfully applied. The interiors, inspired by the craftsmanship of weaving itself, are a quiet triumph of design: loom-like structures frame the space with a softness that invites you in, while intricate plasterwork of root vegetables on the walls playfully hints at the restaurant’s deep respect for nature. The setting feels at once luxurious and wonderfully grounded, setting the stage for what’s to come.
Prior to ordering one of the front of house team brings a basket of vegetables to the table for diners to peruse. The vegetables are accompanied with pride and display diligent selection.
A bread basket then follows, filled with a selection of savoury croissants, crisp breads, parker house rolls, slices of sourdough, and an array of dips and butters, including whipped beurre noisette, Camembert, lobster oil, and pumpkin seed. The bread, butter, and dips had to be managed carefully as the temptation to devour the lot was strong.
There are five component parts to the menu, firstly ‘From The Pantry’, a selection of hors d’oeuvres. All are intricate demonstrating precision and craft, and each deserve mention.
- Cheese and Onion Sandwich
- Cheese, Truffle, Apricot Doughnut
- Drunken Chicken Satay
- Cornish Crab, Melon, Verjus
- Beef Crumpet
- Tomato Basil & Caviar
- Jellied Devon Eel
- Avocado, Basil, Yazu
Each dish was sublime, a quite stunning array of flavours, brought together in a sequence of tastes that surprised, delighted, and complemented each other. The Tomato Basil & Caviar for me was the outstanding dish, from a challenging field. The Cheese and Onion Sandwich warrants special mention also.
Next, From The Larder. The starter course.
From a choice of…
- Lancashire Kohlrabi – Windrush, Blood Orange, Basil
- BBQ Scallop – Smoked Roe, Citrus, Golden Oscietra
- English Asparagus – Almond, Smoked Vinegar, Mangalica
I chose the asparagus, cooked to retain its crispness and earthy taste with a slight bitterness, accompanied with a sauce that delivered sharp bite from the vinegar, sweetness from the almond and gaminess from the Mangalica. Similar to the hors d’oeuvres, a diverse selection of ingredients that fitted together oh so well.
The main course followed, From The Stove.
From the following options…
- Poached & Roast Quail – Morel, Wild Garlic, Blueberry
- Kentish Lamb – Pine Nuts, Peas, Mint
- Cornish Turbot – Native Lobster, Truffle, Salted Grapes, Cauliflower
- Line-Caught Sea Bass – Jersey Royals, Leeks, Yellow Wine
I after much thought and tempted sorely by the quail decided on the turbot. The fish had a mild, sweet, subtle salty flavor, firm and fleshy at the same time. The lobster was the perfect companion to the fish with just a hint richer taste. The truffle added to the richness and the grapes delivered just the right amount of acidity, which the cauliflower then balanced. Another triumph of a dish, and similar to the dish Adam Smith cooked in the 2012 Roux Scholarship final, which he of course won. So, a dish with heritage.
We then moved onto, From The Pastry, dessert.
The three desserts on offer were…
- Signature Chocolate – Sea Salt, Crème Fraîche, Cocoa Nibs
- Yorkshire Rhubarb – Oat, Yoghurt, Ginger
- Macadamia Nut – Dulcey, Oabika, Lime
I have always loved rhubarb, and as I often tell my fellow diners and repeated to Maureen, “since ever before it came into vogue”. If I had to create my perfect menu rhubarb and custard would be for dessert. I of course ordered it.
The rhubarb despite my high bar did not disappoint, acidic like lemon, green apples or sour cherry, calmed by the yoghurt. The oat added crunch, and the ginger was warm and spicy, yet again a combination that sat together so comfortably.
Out last course was simply named, Treats, and there were quite a few to savour.
- Signature Chocolate & Truffle Caramel
- Raspberry & Champagne Jelly
- Signature Milk & Miso Caramel
- Jamaican Blue Mountain Fudge
- Mandarin & Brandy Baba
- Pistachio & Lime
Each was presented exquisitely, looked as good as they were described, and yes, taster event better.
My favourite took quite some thought to land upon, the Signature Chocolate & Truffle Caramel was decadence on a plate, rich and creamy beyond description, but the winner was the Pistachio & Lime. Nuttiness and sharp acidity combined in a way that completed the experience impeccably.
The Experience
Everything about that lunch was just right. The venue in terms of the estate, the hotel and the restaurant. The service was exemplary, as was the food, and the tableware. If you are ever in a position where you want to treat someone to a lunch experience that resonates, Woven by Adam Smith is the place to go.
My compliments to Executive Chef Adam Smith, Jonathan Ellson Director of Food and Beverage, and the whole team at Coworth Park.
Looking forward to the next time.
