Chef Dom Robinson has taken ownership and management of The Blackbird, a traditional country pub in Bagnor, the hamlet near Newbury in Berkshire. After getting his hands dirty and roping in family and friends to give the pub a much needed refurbishment, Dom is firmly back in the kitchen doing what he does best and the doors are now open.
The project is a true labour of love for Dom and opening The Blackbird has seen him accomplish a life-long dream of owning his own restaurant, having previously worked with the likes of Tom Aikens, Anthony Demetre and Adam Byatt. His approach to the menu is ‘back to basics’, ingredient-led using seasonal, locally sourced produce and classical techniques. Dom explains, “I am dedicated to doing everything as perfectly as possible. My cooking is about keeping things simple, focusing on flavour and using the techniques I’ve learnt to get the best out of ingredients. You won’t see me messing around with gels or fermenting everything just for the sake of it.”
The food offers diners an authentic British gastro-pub experience; wholesome, honest cooking at affordable prices made memorable with unique ingredients sourced from an excellent network from local suppliers. The concise, seasonal menu currently proffers starters including ravioli of Kennet crayfish with buttered leeks and venison tartare with Jerusalem artichokes, hazelnuts and truffle. Stand out mains include Lydney Park wild boar with choucroute and russet apple, Charolaise beef cheek with parsley snails and mash, and roast sea trout with pomme fondant and grapefruit butter sauce. French techniques shine through in the dessert selection, with tarte a l’orange with chocolate sorbet and chocolate fondant with mulled quince and pistachio ice cream. Sundays at The Blackbird offer a Sunday pub lunch not to be missed, with main dishes falling into two categories; ‘roasts’ with all the trimmings, and ‘not roasts’; offering a fish and vegetarian alternative.
Inside, the pub has many of its original features, including wood and tile flooring, complemented by antique furniture, an ornate working organ and two roaring fires. Dom has injected colour into space with red walls in the dining room and a vibrant yellow bar, and with unique pieces of art; from landscapes of the local area, to street art prints and even a large canvas decorated expressively by his two young daughters! Exposed bricks and contemporary filament bulb light fittings add to the rustic feel of the space, while a shabby-chic theme continues with vintage crockery, glassware and table linen used throughout.
Complementing the food is a carefully chosen selection of ales, many sourced locally, and wines made with both classic grapes and new age varieties from lesser-known regions. Dom has also ensured that the food and drink has been priced so it is affordable and accessible to locals and visitors alike.
“What I love about the traditional British pub is that it’s something everyone can enjoy and it brings people from all walks of life together,” he said. Since its recent opening, The Blackbird has done just that; village residents have shown huge support, patrons and performers from the neighbouring Watermill Theatre have rushed in and the pub is quickly making its mark on Berkshire’s foodie map. With a scenic train journey from Paddington to Newbury in under an hour, The Blackbird is the perfect location for Londoners to venture out for a countryside adventure complete with a lavish lunch, four legged friends welcome.