We have heard that the 2017 European growing season has reduced the grape wine crop this year to unprecedented levels. In seeking alternatives, we spent some time with Jo Wehring Head of Wines of South Africa (WOSA) – a not-for-profit export council body, which promotes South African wine in countries around the world. It has over 500 producer members.
South Africa’s largest export market is the UK in volume and value, but has had a bumpy ride over the last few years. Looking at the import statistics there are pluses and minuses for South Africa – lowish average price at £2.02/litre (bottled export prices) compared to France at £4.46 or Spain at £1.85 and ranks eighth in volume import terms.
So, as a country it offers great value for money. There are many new shoots for South African wines in the UK market according to a positive Jo Wehring, and the stats are beginning to show this with volumes on the increase and the average price of bulk imports also increasing.
In fact Jo believes that it is possibly the most exciting time for South Africa as a wine producing nation with premium wines sales being very popular in the independent off trade and that it now dripping through to the on-trade, although it is difficult to measure by way of stats as so much of it is off the Nielsen statistics and similar radar.
But the vibe amongst the sommelier and wine drinking community is there, judging by the recent media commentary pointing to South Africa being one of the best value global sources of wine.
Whilst South Africa is still delivering a world class offer at entry level for especially Chenin blanc, the industry is driving the premium and mid tier qualities and ranges. In the longer term, South Africa does not have the volumes that support entry level product. WOSA’s focus is and always has been growing value.
To that end they have spent much time promoting South African wine in the independent sector, which Jo believes has now begun to pay off. The distribution of small South African wineries in the indie sector has grown massively in the last 2-3 years. There are many smaller importers focussing on S.A. wines.
What are the strengths of South Africa and why should sommeliers and others list their wines?
One strength is the sheer variety of varieties and styles available. Chenin blanc is a sommelier’s dream, as it partners with food so easily – the crisp acidity and the gentle melon/pear fruit create matches for many different types of food at the lighter end.
The newer areas such as Breedekloof have access to good quantities of older vine Chenin which produces extra layers of richness. Swartland as a district has come on leaps and bonds in 20 years, becoming an incubator for many smaller wineries. Blends are always strong particularly from the red Mediterranean varieties, Grenache, shiraz and cinsaut.
Sauvignon blanc is also a strong competitor for Marlborough and France, whilst also being less expensive, making it outstanding value.
At the same time, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from places like Hemel-en-Aarde rival Burgundy for quality.
To help promote this diversity, in 2010 WOSA launched the Sommelier Cup. It is held every 3 years and is an International competition, which holds a UK round.
If you qualify then there is a one-day competition in the UK, judged by Master Sommelier Ronan Sayburn and Greg Sherwood MW, followed by the run-off for overall winner in South Africa.
South Africa has etched a place on the Sommelier’s mind and it is a ‘must-know’ area for the professional wine advisor and server. If you want to get involved in the 2019 competition, then keep an eye on the wosa.co.za website.
Once visitors go to South Africa especially the Western Cape, they immediately become ambassadors because it is such a magical place. There’s a strong link between wine and tourism. Tourism revenues set to rise to SAR16Bn (GBP 920M) BY 2025 and WOSA are about to appoint their first Wine Tourism Manager. There are now several wine routes in and around the Western Cape region. Cape Town now has its own recognisable Geographical Indicator (G.I.) – the legal term for a defined food or drink producing region – which is there to bring the wine culture and tourism spark of Cape Town together.
There are new regions coming through across the western Cape. Breedekloof, Hemel en Aaarde, the wilderness of the west coast vineyards up towards Namibia, the sophistication of Hermanus and Cape Agulhas and as far a Plettenberg Bay not to mention the wonderful scenery inland and the wine regions Stellenbosch, Paarl, the great value Wellington, the rejuvenated Swartland – once a volume area and now a small producer hub and of course fabled Franschoek. I have barely scratched the surface, but the Western Cape is rich in scenery and wine regions.
Turning to drier more commercial matters I wondered how BREXIT might change things for South African wine producers? What are the hopes and fears of the vinous community?
Jo’s answer is cautiously optimistic. Who knows what will happen in the outcome, of course nobody truly knows – it is mostly speculation currently.
However there is possibly an opportunity should the old world producers of France, Spain and Italy find themselves on the wrong end of changing tariffs for wine, thereby offering South Africa possibly freer access and less cost. Jo does know that South Africans are very good at finding solutions to problems.
So what does the person so familiar with South African wines enjoy when she puts her feet up? Of course it is difficult to truly say. What she does enjoy is the rise of new things and new producers making wines that implore you to drink. Cinsaut is a favourite that has made its mark with its curiously crisp red style – light but flavoursome.
So, if you are a buyer in that position of searching for alternatives in a rising market then South Africa comes with a hearty recommendation of new regions, varieties and styles taking a realistic view of the world’s ever changing political and economic climate.
Alistair Morrell, Hospitality & Catering News, Wine & Drinks Editor