‘Think Downton Abbey’ sirens one of the reviews for Ashford Castle voted Britain and Ireland’s no.2 Best Resort Hotel according to Travel and Leisure ‘World’s Best Awards 2017’. This historic and multi awarded destination in the west of Ireland is the most idyllic and romantic venue of the Red Carnation Group.
It also sports Ireland’s Best Wine Experience according to the Irish Restaurant Awards in 2016, thanks at least in part to Philip Dunne their young, ambitious Head Sommelier. It is easy to see why. His passion for wine and especially Champagne bristles through our recent conversation.
It is difficult to imagine a more romantic place, a vantage point to enjoy possibly one of the most ethereal and esoteric experiences in the wine world.
The 16th Century cellars were unromantic coal-bunkers and staff entrances, a long way from the quiet, cosy ambience now created for wine tastings. The result of a major refurbishment in 2015 saw them developed into three unique private wine cellars. They now conduct personal wine tastings and these exceptional surroundings have led to a number of betrothals.
Romance is in the DNA of the hotel group, which saw husband, Stanley whose signature was a red carnation in the lapel catching the eye of his future wife, Bea. Ashford Castle is one of 17 owned by Tollman family, whose enthusiasm for world class hospitality is evident in its service and style. Its heady, outstanding environs explain much about why Champagne is still the lead selling product in Ashford Castle. It is the romantic destination of Ireland and the awards re-assure us that it will not disappoint.
Philip is responsible for the whole wine list at Ashford. His careful approach to this 750 wine list is classic and contemporary. It has the Petrus, Premier Grand Cru Classe Bordeaux, yet also many of the ‘New World’ items that demarcate a list, which has some unique offerings that implore you to discover. The Tollman family own the renowned Bouchard Finlayson of Hermanus in South Africa, which features on the list. This is one of the ‘fashionable’ regions of the Cape, where Captonians go to holiday. Hermanus is the Devon of South Africa – cool, trendy and full of the dining and surfing classes, similar to Margaret River or Napa/Sonoma as a wine tourist area.
Philip’s current favourites include a Cabernet Franc, from Saumur Champigny, which he would partner with the world class Achill Island Mountain Lamb. However pride of place goes to Champagne, because it is still the best seller in this lovely destination.
As you enter the restaurant a stunning display of Champagne Lanson White label, a sec or less dry style, greets the guests. We are quickly getting the idea here, that this is a place to relax, enjoy and immerse into treat and luxury – where else would you want to be? Where else could you be?
Well there is always afternoon tea, accompanied by a Champagne Lanson tasting. Philip’s view is that Champagne Lanson’s versatility suits the Ashford Castle guests. In his words ‘beautiful on its own and beautiful with food’.
The pairing with Afternoon Tea is the most popular dining feature of Ashford Castle served with three different styles of Champagne Lanson.
First a 75ml glass of the Pere et Fils is served with exquisitely manicured sandwiches. This enriched version of the classic Black Label has more refinement, with a brilliant bright golden colour animated by tiny bubbles. The nose subtely arouses aromas of ripeness and gentle savoury spices, its palate giving a complex, full and persistent impact with honeydew flavours. Its subtlety the ideal partner for light perfectly formed sandwiches.
Followed by Champagne Lanson Rose with scones – a cheeky combination which sees the essence of a subtle wine with very fine bubbles married with light airy not overly sweet, freshly made scones. Its aromas of rose and fine fragrances of red fruits echo its pale pink colour and partner any red fruit accompaniment such as strawberries. The sensation is tender and long-lasting. It seduces with its unfaltering originality and a harmonious balance alternating between roundness and freshness with its perfectly balanced acidity cutting through the richness of cream. How could you resist.
Philip Dunne, Head Sommelier, Ashford CastleAnd to finish sumptuous desserts served with Champagne Lanson White Label.
The feast is initially on the eyes, as the striking Champagne presentation sits so well with the star quality of elaborate, yet delicate different shapes of mouthfuls of eat-me imploring desserts tempt the guest. The sensation of White Label is tender and delicate. The flavours of white fruits develop and add to its enduring character and partner the shapes of lovely desserts perfectly. The finish, with freshness and the silky minerality of chalk, affirms the Lanson signature and leave the palate clean ready for the next delight.
Philip works closely with Paula Stakelum, Executive Pastry Chef, on this Afternoon Tea menu. Throughout the three restaurant Ashford Castle dining experience Philip works closely with the Chef team headed by Philippe Farineau to provide outstanding food and wine pairing, an aspect which has also won the hotel awards. An outstanding example of which is the pairing of game dishes with the Champagne Lanson Extra Age – the richness of the Premier and Grand Cru vineyards partnering perfectly the subtle richness of game birds especially.
Ashford Castle stocks the whole impressive Champagne Lanson range available, and makes full use of it. Philip’s personal favourite is the White Label. His confession, made at the alter of Champagne, is that his sweet tooth does enjoy the intricate fruit crafted in the medium dry style with some of the intricately crafted desserts by the princess of the patisseries, Paula.
Philip has an eye for the trends. His prediction is that as the classics rise inexorably in price, the reputation quality and value of the wines of Spain and Italy will continue to challenge them. In the contemporary arena the Organic and Biodynamic ways and ethos will lead the way, as the wine consumer becomes more aware of the environmental impact that wines have. Guests are already becoming more discerning with their choice of food and the origins of wine, what’s ‘in’ them and the provenance gain momentum in the required selection from Ashford and in general.
In the next few years, Philip sees himself continuing to maintain the award winning efforts at Ashford Castle. There is according to Philip, no better hotel in Ireland. The flexibility of the owners and the facilities and resources make it a proud place to work. He is working towards the next award – the Wine Spectators Grand Award, which, modestly, Philip estimates that they are two years away from.
Personally and following his growing reputation as a wine writer with formerly The Mayo News, and now with Ireland’s biggest food and drink magazine, TheTaste.ie, he sees his personal development coming from sitting the Master of Wine exam. It is a big aspiration and created in part by the MW fellowship, or at least the ones he knows, who have been supportive and dedicated to enhancing wine knowledge.
Ashford Castle, a place of leisure, classic and yet contemporary. A place of history where Champagne Lanson features proudly as symbolic of the Ashford Castle’s luxury and prestige. Guardian of all things vinous, Philip Dunne, keeps the careful balance of classic and contemporary through the wines he lists and the way that they are served.
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