Mathias Camilleri is the Head Sommelier at the Michelin Starred Five Fields Restaurant and the winner of the International Young Sommelier 2015 Chaine des Rotisseurs and UK Young Sommelier. And the UK kidnapped him!
It was never Mathias’ intention to stay here. He thought that after a year he would go back to his Gallic home of gastronomy, and all things vinous. However fate had something different in store for him. He enjoys the cosmopolitan nature of these sceptred isles, which may not be surprising when you discover that his Father is of Franco-Italian background and his Mother of Chinese, Singaporean.
But it is not just this. On his return to France after a 6 months stint at The Vineyard at Stockcross (a vinous palace with 2,500 bins famed for its Californian selection) he realised that young people in in the UK are respected for their knowledge and understanding of wine. He found his natural passion and growing knowledge for wine and food had much more of a place in the UK, especially cosmopolitan London.
After a 3 year apprenticeship at French biased The Medlar he arrived as the main man at Five Fields Restaurant in the heart of Chelsea. It is in part testament to Mathias’ training that he is passionate about his customers and that he puts their wishes first beyond any vinous snobbishness.
Secreted away from the main drag of the Kings Road, Five Fields chef Patron Taylor Bonnyman and Head Chef Marguerite Keough lead the food offer with a British, Artisnal and Seasonal themed menu. Mathias follows this with his selection of wines. As Head Sommelier he is responsible for all aspects of the wine choices from how much to stock, what to stock and is a key part of the food and wine matching. He has the benefit of a wine storage, which is set up at the place where the kitchen garden is in East Sussex.
This must be a Sommeliers dream, as not having to rely on suppliers stock week in and week out, but having your own core range selected and in some cases aged on your own premises is a terrific asset in space poor London.
Champagne Lanson – Ivory Demi-Sec – The Perfect AccompanimentOne aspect that he is firm about is his choice of Champagne. ‘The Perfect Start’ is always a glass of Champagne Lanson Pere et Fils Brut NV, as indeed is a perfect finish, as I was to experience. Champagne Lanson has been in production since 1760 and its consistency is legendary amongst the Sommelier community. Maybe this is testament to the non-malolactic style championed by the Champagne Lanson house style and maintained by Chef de Cave Herve Dantan. This technique in production results in a crisp, fresh and a more ‘appley’ style and lends itself to the ideal aperitif.
In fact the philosophy of the list is to try and highlight unusual grape varieties and styles of wine; an eclectic mix, which can satisfy all palates and wallets. In comparison to Stockcross it is a tight list at 550 bins, so Sommelier selection is key. Considering Mathias’ open minded approach to wine, it could be easy to expand beyond the realms of commercial reason. But, no, Mathias stays within reasonable boundaries, yet still manages to include Savennieres, one of France’s smallest appellations, Savoie rarely seen in the UK, to DRC (Domaine de la Romanee Conti) a healthy list of USA wines, Italian and a variety of German, Eastern European, Spanish and New World.
Not many can boast older vintages of Champagnes such as the Champagne Lanson Gold Labels 1989 and 1995 as well as the current 1997.
Mathias works with around 10 suppliers to fulfil around 30 different ‘roles’ within the list.
The wine list is seen as a dynamic tool to gently tease and pull in new wines that reflect current trends whilst demonstrate depth and breadth of selection. With a wide range of 33 wines by the glass it demonstrates both. Five Fields employ the precise Coravin method of preservation for a number of different and high level wines such as the 2,000 case production of Philip Togni from the Napa and the sensational Riesling Clos Ste Hune from Trimbach.
So as a customer you can see the skill of the sommelier in the list and its service.
But what does it take to become a champion sommelier?
A competitive spirit, a desire to test his skills with the best is Mathias’ reflection. He is an enthusiast who measures his enthusiasm against the customer and the customers’ requirements. His desire to begin with the customer and to try and understand their needs in the context of the restaurant and whatever he can understand about their experience comes first. These are laudable aims, but difficult to achieve.
Clearly ambitious, I can’t help wondering what Mathias expects to be doing in 3 or 5 years time. A sommelier, without doubt. And the person he most respects in the industry – Gerard Basset. However not for pure sommelier skills, but his all round business achievements, his human nature, passion, a leader of teams and of course a sommelier first.
So what of the future trends in 2017. Mathias is a dedicated Riesling fan and hopes that Riesling becomes more popular with the general consumer. Its versatility from dry to sweet and its ability to match with such a wide range of different foods as well as being able to age so gracefully make its produce as a variety so rich and interesting.
A sample of the taster menu – Foie Gras with Quince paste, pear and grated walnutsHis favourite dish from the menu reflects his wine of choice also. A Langoustine Kolrabi and Granny Smith dish from the tasting menu with a glass of Riesling Scharzhofberger by Van Volxeim. The balance of freshness and richness from Langoustine with the sharpness of the Granny Smith and the background kohlrabi with a perfectly balanced firm acidity, yet raisin fruit Riesling from the Mosel are Mathias’ idea of heaven. Not far from mine too!
Kindly Mathias arranged for a little taster for us – the Foie Gras with Quince paste, pear and grated walnuts with the interesting match of the luxurious Champagne Lanson Ivory Label Demi Sec NV. Mathias’ influences are mildly disruptive and therefore exciting. Demi-sec Champagne for elegance and a touch of sweetness (for it is Sauternes that is classically matched) with the richness of the Foie Gras and gentle acidity of pear and dryness of walnut held together with the quince paste not forgetting the refreshing delicate bubbles.
Mathias believes that there is no such thing as perfect food and wine matching, just personal choice.
A touch of genius in the marriage. Am I pleased that the UK kidnapped Mathias Camilleri – a champion of sommeliers and customers.
The Five Fields: 8-9 Blacklands Terrace, London SW3 2SP
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Alistair Morrell
Hospitality & Catering News, Wine & Drinks Editor