If Bill English has his way then we will all be drinking Kiwi reds in as near time as possible. The ironically and coincidentally named Kiwi Prime Minister has wasted no time in making friends with Theresa May and laying on the table the opportunity of as quick a trade deal as possible with the UK. So at the recent NZ Great New Zealand wine tastings earlier this week I took a look at a few and found one NZ region where such poor land is making great wines (3 acres – 1 sheep – you’ll have to read on to find out).
From a wine perspective there is every reason for us to look at expanding the repertoire of wines from our more distant Oceanic cousins. Their exports to the UK grew again last year to a massive 278M bottles, which is 47% up on 2010 shipments. They are dominated by the UK’s most favoured region and varietal – Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. However red varietals take up around 20% of all plantings in NZ and around 10% are Pinot Noir, which is the increasingly popular over the bars of the premium on-trade.
Here are my top 6 from the table of 16 Pinot Noirs presented.
*Brennan B2 Central Otago – On shelf price (OSP) £27.25
WLP closer to £40
Domaine Rewa Central Otago – UK Supplier H2Vin (OSP) £35.25
WLP £75-£80
*Gladstone Vineyard Wairarapa – 2014 (OSP) £18.99
WLP c.£35-£40
Astrolabe Province Marlborough 2014 UK Supplier Armit Wines (OSP) £20
WLP c.£30
*Misha’s Vineyard The High Note Central Otago £25.00
WLP c.£50
Sileni Estate Selection Springstone Hawkes Bay 2015 UK Supplier Boutinot
(OSP – £14.00) WLP c.£35
WLP – Estimated Wine list price in an on trade establishment depending on mark-ups
*not yet shipped to the UK
New Zealand has struggled for 30 years, which is as long as I have been associated with the industry, to have its reds appreciated by trade and consumers alike. So may be evolving production techniques as market circumstances, the time is now.
Firstly it is clear from a supply and production point of view that NZ Reds are as globally competitive with quality as they ever have ever been. Central Otago was deemed a ‘kookie’, ‘for the fairies’ region 20 years ago and for top end wine trade is now firmly lodged as a centre of excellence for Pinot Noir. A marginal wine growing region or terroir it might be, but human progress is determined by such ground breaking and challenging activities.
As demonstrated by my selections above, there are also several regions, which can make good, if not outstanding quality red wines. Marlborough, whilst dominated by Sauvignon Blanc is also good for Pinot Noir. Then there are Martinborough, Hawkes Bay, Auckland itself, which are all now well established in growing, making and refining the red styles.
What the Kiwis seem to be learning is how to extract flavour with refinement and less alcohol. It is far from universal, but nonetheless a trend.
One region’s wineries that certainly intrigues in this regard is Gimblett Gravels.
Planted with 90% red varieties, Gimblett Gravels is an exceptional part of Hawkes Bay and the world. Home to 26 wineries, it has such poor self draining, I hesitate to say soil, because it is more schist or gravel, that only the weed like vine will grow on it. The region is defined uniquely in world appellation terms by its Omahu soils.
I am not big on terroir as a diffentiator of taste – it is often over played especially by the French, but Gimblett Gravels sticks out quite distinctly. Its land was deemed so poor 40 years ago that 3 acres would only sustain one sheep! One to watch from here is Unison Vineyards, which is owned and run by an English family Philip and Terry Horn. They are producing some excellent sophisticated Bordeaux reds with generosity more than many a Bordeaux and a superb Northern Rhone style peppery Syrah. Appropriately experienced Bordeaux, Australia and New Zealand, winemaker Jenny Dobson helps in making these wines and there is a natural style and elegance within.
So there is real progress on the production side and embedded in that progress there is something else about the lighter perhaps arguably more ‘aromatic’ (I use this in the broadest sense of the word), lighter and perhaps more sophisticated styles that appeals to the current market.
Secondly the market conditions have changed. Consumers are trading up, spending more money, and want to know that there is ‘quality’ behind what they are buying. At the same time the days of the block buster red, for most consumers, are over. I remember well being on the shop floor being asked by potential customers when judging a red wine “is it strong”, almost as though this was the absolute measure of did it taste good. Well they weren’t entirely incorrect or misguided alcohol does equal flavour in some measure, however now the market is demanding lower alcohol wines with flavour and distinct characteristics.
For the hospitality and catering industries there is every reason to take a good look at New Zealand reds. The quality is right up there, (remember the more acres and the less the sheep the better!) NZ has a high quality reputation, which consumers are likely to buy into and the styles are right for the time. And bearing in mind the PMs speech this week it looks like deals with New Zealand on trade are going to come around sooner rather than later!
Alistair Morrell
Hospitality & Catering News, Wine & Drinks Editor