Portugal may have one of the most famous contemporary and arguably the best Portuguese footballers of all time, but did you know that there are over 250 native grape varieties of Portugal? Whilst it is difficult if not impossible to find examples of all 250, the array of varieties makes for interesting wine tastes and comparisons. And by the way they have all been around for a lot longer than Ronaldo!
For many years Portugal has struggled as a wine exporting nation. It always suffers in the shadow of the much larger producing nations of Spain, France and Italy. In 2016 it was 5th in the producers of Europe table, with only Germany adding to the S.European club of 3.
However Portugal has always had a vibrant industry with a fundamental and cultural difference to those other European countries. Of course Port has had a substantial influence. This style of neutered fortified wine has been shipped to the UK for over 400 years from the Oporto region and has a profound British connection, which is still apparent in names and the culture of the region.
The still wine industry there has predominately stuck to the native varieties. So you can find things like Trincadeira, which produces warm and plummy flavours produced in a modern style it is a great drinking wine.
Touriga Nacional, which the Portuguese highlight as a ‘noble’ variety alongside Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir and Nebbiolo. I think the French just about agree that it is a noble variety (a term which is bound to scare the novice to wine. It is a self appointed term largely that is almost designed to scare – it really means that an unappointed and ill-defined group of wine cogniscenti have selected a variety to ‘noble’ status because is has become seen to be traditional or classic, but who is to say what these terms truly mean?)
Other red varieties that produce good wines are Castelao (well structured), Jaen (rustic, easy drinking), Alfrocheiro (firm ripe), Baga (good ageing), Touriga Franca (blackcurranty).
In white wines there is Alvarinho, which is the best known and alternatively known as Albarino in Spain. Alvarinho contributes to the well known Vinho Verde or loosely translated ‘Green Wine’. It is so called because of the early time at which they pick the grapes means that the grapes are distinctly green at harvest. The wine known for its slight fizz and inspiring acidity, has gone through something of a renaissance and is a good example of the seismic change in wine production and marketing in many countries and regions around the world.
Vinho Verde lies at the north of Portugal around the city of Braga and within the Minho region. There are now 10’s if not hundreds of estates in Vinho Verde and now is showing off a full array of varieties – Arinto (minerally), Loureiro (floral), Trajadura (steely), Avessa (richer, mineral) and of course the Sauvginon-esque Alvarinho. Originally Vinho Verde gets its spritz from the secondary malolactic fermentation which consumers found appealing, albeit that most winemakers today consider it a technical wine fault. Having being liked by consumers it became part of the product proposition.
There are other white varieties too Bical, Encruzado, the aromatic Fernao Pires and the native Verdelho which is grown extensively on Ronaldo’s home island of Madeira and in many other countries, notably Australia.
The link between grapes and different regions is undoubted but often more to do with history and precedent than the fabled terroir. There are some clear patterns – white grapes can get ripe enough in cooler or more maritime climates, red varieties do need some heat to get truly ripe, especially when you are talking about thick skinned varieties. Portugal has all the climates and seasons – maritime, mountainous terrains, hot temperatures, cold winters, maritime winters too and of course the gentle climate of the Algarve.
When you get up into the Dao and Beira regions it is not unusual to find temperatures of 40 degrees in summer, and likewise in winter, it can easily be snowing and freezing. Indeed one producer asked me whether I wanted to go back with him and go skiing! There are 14 classified wine regions of Portugal, 12 mainland regions – the Azores and Madeira being the island ones.
From the Hospitality and Catering perspective then there is great opportunity from Portugal to differentiate and with outstanding value. It is well worth seeking out some of the traditional food and specialist in Portuguese wines. This country has a long coastline and an affinity with the sea, consequently creating great fish dishes, fresh and delicious. Conversely it also has outstanding forested areas with great game, wild boar and deer. So the scope for outstanding Portuguese food is well at hand. Match that with some of these different contemporary produced varieties and you have a great evenings or week of evenings event that show off your establishment to its best.
With over 4,000 years of wine producing history and its clear differentiation of grape varieties and styles then there is much to recommend Portuguese fayre which helps create the theatre. One things for sure Ronaldo might be an outstanding footballer now, but its food and wine have been around a lot longer and will be so for a long time to come making them a much more interesting candidate for the ‘Great’ word.
Alistair Morrell
Hospitality & Catering News, Wine & Drinks Editor